Dye extracts - Papahoa Fibreworks Ltd

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Gallnut Extract [quercus infectoria]

In natural dyeing, gallnut extract is prized above all as a tannin mordant for cellulose fibres such as linen, cotton, and hemp. Because alum doesn&#39;t bind readily to cellulose on its own, a tannin pre-treatment is essential — the tannin bonds to the fibre first, and alum then bonds to the tannin, creating a stable base for dyeing. On its own, gallnut imparts only a very pale, warm beige — but combined with iron, it produces soft greys through to deep charcoal and black, making it a key building block in natural in natural grey/black palettes.<br><br>Typical use rate: 5–8% WOF (weight of fibre) for mordanting; can be increased toward 15-20% for deeper iron-black effects.<br><br>Safety notes:<br>- For dye/craft use only — not intended for human or animal consumption.<br>- Wear a dust mask when handling the dry powder to avoid inhalation, and gloves are recommended to avoid staining.<br>- Low toxicity but standard studio hygiene applies — avoid ingestion, keep away from food preparation areas, and wash hands after handling.<br>- Store in a cool, dry place away from children and pets.<br><br>GOTS and Eco Dye certified, sourced responsibly from India.

$21.00 - $40.00

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Indigo Extract [indigofera tinctoria]

Indigo is one of the world&#39;s oldest and most iconic dyes, traditionally sourced from the leaves of Indigofera tinctoria or related species. Unlike most natural dyes, indigo is not a soluble dye but an insoluble pigment — indigotin — locked inside the plant. This means indigo doesn&#39;t bond to fibre the way tannin- or mordant-based dyes do. Instead, it must first be chemically reduced in a vat, converting it into a soluble, pale yellow-green form (&quot;white indigo&quot; or leuco-indigo) that the fibre can absorb. Once the dyed fibre is lifted from the vat and exposed to air, oxidation instantly converts the leuco-indigo back into its insoluble blue form.<br><br>Because no mordant is required, indigo can be used on protein and cellulose fibres alike, and it is compatible with a range of vat systems. Depth of colour is achieved through repeated short dips and oxidations rather than a single long soak — each dip adds a thin layer of blue.<br><br>GOTS and Eco Dye certified, sourced responsibly from India.<br>

$21.00 - $40.00

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Cutch Extract [acacia catechu]

Cutch extract comes from the heartwood of Acacia catechu, a tree native to India, Burma, Indonesia, and Peru. To produce it, the heartwood is steeped in hot water until a thick, syrupy liquid emerges, which is then dried and ground into a fine, water-soluble powder. Cutch is unique among natural dyes in being both a dyestuff and a tanning agent in one — it contains the colouring compound catechin alongside naturally occurring tannin.<br><br>Cutch produces a unique warm, earthy palette of colourfast browns — cinnamon, nutmeg, toffee, and ochre with an alum mordant, deepening to rich chocolate brown with iron, or shifting toward russet and terracotta with a touch of soda ash or calcium carbonate. It&#39;s prized for its excellent lightfastness and washfastness, among the most durable of all natural browns, and has a naturally sweet aroma in the dyebath.<br><br>Use at 15–30% WOF for a good depth of colour on cellulose fibres, up to 50% WOF for the deepest shades. Cutch doesn&#39;t exhaust easily, so a single dyebath can often be reused for several progressively lighter shades. <br><br>GOTS and Eco Dye certified, sourced responsibly from India.

$28.00 - $50.00